September 8, 2026

Indoor air quality · Peel Region, Ontario · Updated September 2026

Indoor Humidity in Winter: Health Canada says 30 per cent, and your windows decide the rest

Most pages tell you to aim for 40 to 45 in winter. That is above what Health Canada names, and on a cold night it runs down your glass.

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Mario Vaghei, General Manager of Aire One Peel Heating and Cooling

Mario Vaghei, General Manager, Aire One Peel Heating & Cooling

Published September 8, 2026 · Facts verified September 8, 2026

Every winter the same argument plays out in Ontario houses: one person is cracking from dry air, the other is wiping water off the window ledge, and both are right. Winter humidity is not a comfort setting you pick once. It is a ceiling set by how cold your windows get, and the number underneath that ceiling is lower than most advice admits. The summer version of this problem, where the house is clammy instead, is covered separately in our guide to an air conditioner not removing humidity.

Short answer

Around 30 per cent. Health Canada names 50 per cent in summer and 30 per cent in winter, and gives 30 to 50 per cent as the year-round band. In a cold snap the real limit is lower still, because the moment your window glass falls below the dew point of the room air, water forms on it.

Applies to Mississauga, Brampton, Etobicoke, Milton, Georgetown, Caledon and Bolton. The physics is identical everywhere; only your window and your outdoor temperature change.

The number, and why two Health Canada pages differ

Health Canada publishes two figures for indoor humidity, and they are not in conflict once you see what each is for. The mould guidance gives a band you should stay inside all year. The humidifier guidance gives a seasonal target within that band, and for winter that target is the bottom of it. Most pages quote the first and ignore the second, which is how "aim for 40 to 45 in winter" became common advice that neither document supports.

Health Canada's two published figures, quoted from the source pages and dated by their own modified dates. Both read September 8, 2026 and linked in full at the end of this page.
Source pageWhat it saysModifiedWhat it is for
MouldMaintain relative humidity levels between 30 and 50 per cent, stated year round with no seasonal splitFebruary 13, 2023The band you should never leave
Cool-mist humidifiersKeep the humidity at around 50 per cent in the summer and 30 per cent in the winter to prevent mould growthOctober 14, 2012Where to sit inside that band, by season

Read together, the instruction for an Ontario winter is clear enough: stay inside 30 to 50, and aim at the 30 end. Not because dry air is pleasant, but because the alternative in a cold climate is water on your building. That is the part the next section is about.

Indoor humidity in winter is capped by your windows, not your comfort

In winter your maximum indoor humidity is decided by the coldest surface in the room, and in almost every Ontario house that surface is a window. Warm indoor air holds a certain amount of water vapour, and when that air touches glass cold enough, the vapour turns back into liquid. The temperature at which that happens is the dew point of your indoor air, and it depends only on the room temperature and the humidity.

This is why the advice cannot be a single number. At 20 degrees and 30 per cent humidity, your dew point is about 2 degrees, so the glass has to get near freezing before anything forms. Push the same room to 50 per cent and the dew point climbs to about 9 degrees, which a double-glazed window in a Peel Region February reaches easily. The humidity did not become unhealthy. It became more than your windows can carry.

Key takeaway

Condensation on the inside of your windows is not a window fault and it is not weather. It is a reading. It means the humidity in that room is currently above what the coldest surface in it can tolerate, and the fix is to lower the humidity rather than to wipe the glass.

The arithmetic, so you can check it yourself

The table below is our own calculation rather than a chart borrowed from somewhere, and the formula is printed underneath so you can verify every row. Find your humidity reading in the first column, read across to the dew point, and compare it to how cold you think your glass gets on a bad night. If the glass is colder than that number, you will get condensation.

Aire One Peel calculation, September 8, 2026. Dew point from the Magnus approximation with constants a equals 17.62 and b equals 243.12 degrees Celsius, which is the standard form used for air above freezing. Rounded to one decimal place. This is arithmetic, not a survey, so you can reproduce every row.
Indoor humidityDew point at 20 °CDew point at 21 °CCondensation forms when the glass is
20 per cent-3.7 °C-2.8 °Cbelow freezing. Very hard to reach indoors
30 per cent1.9 °C2.7 °Cnear freezing. This is why 30 is the winter target
35 per cent4.1 °C4.9 °Ccold, but reachable on an older window
40 per cent6.0 °C6.9 °Ca normal double-glazed pane in a cold snap
45 per cent7.7 °C8.6 °Cmost windows, most of a Peel Region winter
50 per cent9.3 °C10.2 °Calmost any window once it is properly cold out
Indoor humidity in winter chart plotting dew point against indoor relative humidity at 20 and 21 degrees Celsius, with the 30 per cent winter target marked and the band where a double glazed window condenses
The same figures drawn out. As the humidity in the room rises, the temperature at which water forms on your glass rises with it. Where that line crosses how cold your window actually gets is your personal ceiling.

The formula, if you want to run it: dew point equals b times gamma divided by a minus gamma, where gamma is the natural log of the humidity as a fraction, plus a times the temperature divided by b plus the temperature. With a equals 17.62 and b equals 243.12 you will land on the same numbers we did.

What too dry actually looks like

Below about 30 per cent the complaints stop being about comfort and start being about your house. Static shocks off a door handle, timber floors opening at the seams, doors that suddenly stick or suddenly do not, instrument bodies and furniture joints moving: these are moisture leaving the wood, and they are the reason the lower bound exists rather than dropping to zero. The human side, dry eyes and dry skin and a scratchy nose, is real but it is the part we are least qualified to speak about, so this page treats it as a comfort signal rather than a medical one.

Symptoms mapped to the reading that usually produces them and the direction to move. Bounds from Health Canada's mould and humidifier guidance, read September 8, 2026. Buy a hygrometer before acting on any row; guessing the number is the most common error on this topic.
What you noticeLikely readingWhich way to move
Static shocks, gaps opening in wood floors, furniture joints looseningUnder 30 per centUp, toward 30
Comfortable, no condensation, nothing movingAround 30 to 35 per centNowhere. This is the target
A rim of water along the bottom of the glass on cold morningsAbove your window's ceilingDown, until the glass stays dry
Water pooling on sills, paint lifting, dark spots at the frame cornersWell above it, for a whileDown now, and check for damage
Musty smell, damp basement, visible mouldOver 50 per cent somewhereDown, and find the moisture source

How to raise it, cheapest first

If your indoor humidity in winter is genuinely below 30, work down this list in order, because the first two cost nothing and the last one is a permanent install. Most Ontario houses that feel painfully dry are not short of a humidifier; they are running one that is switched off, set wrong, or blocked with scale. Only after those are ruled out is new equipment the answer.

Ways to add moisture in winter, ordered by what they cost you. No prices are published here because equipment is quoted at the free in-home estimate rather than off a page. Compiled September 8, 2026.
OptionCoversThe catchWho fits it
Check the humidistat you already haveWhole houseOften left off from last spring, or set for a mild dayYou, free
Run the bathroom fan less, air-dry laundry indoorsWhole house, modestlyDo not overdo it. This is how basements get dampYou, free
Portable humidifierOne roomYou refill it and you clean it, weekly, without failYou
Bypass or fan-powered humidifier on the furnaceWhole houseNeeds a water line, a drain and an annual pad changeHVAC technician
Steam humidifierWhole house, tighter controlUses electricity to boil water, so it costs more to runHVAC technician

If you are weighing the whole-house options, our humidifiers page lists what we install, and a technician can tell you at a free in-home estimate whether your furnace already has the water line and drain that a bypass unit needs. Retrofitting those is often the real cost, not the humidifier.

The part people skip, and why it matters

A humidifier that is not cleaned stops being a comfort appliance and becomes a problem of its own. Health Canada is direct about this for portable cool-mist units: clean and disinfect the water reservoir on a regular basis and follow the manufacturer's directions, because bacteria collect and multiply in sitting water and a cool-mist unit does not boil the water, so it does not kill them. That is the whole argument for the weekly clean, and it is not ours, it is theirs.

On water, Health Canada's position is more relaxed than the marketing suggests: the number of particles released into the air is generally much lower with distilled water, but tap water is fine in most cases. So distilled is a dust question, not a safety requirement. For a furnace-mounted unit the equivalent job is the annual pad or panel change and a look at the drain, which is part of a normal heating service visit and is worth doing before the season rather than in February.

Safety

A furnace-mounted humidifier is plumbed and wired into a gas appliance. Fitting or moving one is work for a TSSA-registered fuels contractor, not a weekend job. Opening a furnace cabinet exposes you to gas, electrical and sharp-edged components at once.

Separately, no humidity setting protects you from carbon monoxide. Only a working CO alarm does. If one sounds, get everyone outside and call 911 from outside.

Who is allowed to do what on a winter humidity job. Gas appliance work is restricted to a TSSA-registered fuels contractor. Compiled September 8, 2026.
The jobYou can do itNeeds a technician
Read the humidity and set the humidistatYes, and it is the first thing to tryNo
Clean a portable humidifier reservoirYes, weekly, per the manufacturerNo
Change the pad or panel on a furnace humidifierSometimes, if the access panel is externalUsually, and it rides along with a heating service
Clear a blocked humidifier drainNoYes
Fit a humidifier to the furnaceNoYes. Gas appliance work, TSSA-registered fuels contractor

Not sure whether your furnace can take a humidifier?

A technician can tell you in one visit whether the water line and drain are already there, what your current unit is actually doing, and whether the dryness is an equipment problem at all. That is a conversation, not a sale.

Book a free in-home estimate Call 905-564-8545

Aire One Peel Heating & Cooling, 1625 Courtneypark Dr E, Mississauga, ON L5T 1V9

Too dry, or just a cold window?

Two questions, and it points you at a row of the tables above. Every answer already appears in the prose, so nothing here depends on the script running.

1. On a cold morning, what do the windows look like?

2. Do you have a hygrometer reading?

You are above your window's ceiling. Bring it down.

Wet glass is a reading, not a window fault. Turn the humidistat down a few points and watch the glass over two or three cold mornings. Keep lowering until it stays dry. Do not add a humidifier to a house that is already condensing, whatever the room feels like.

Bring it down now, and look at what the water has already done.

Pooling water, lifting paint and dark corners mean this has been running for a while, not just this morning. Lower the humidistat today, dry the sills, and check the frames and the wall below them. If there is mould, deal with the moisture source before anything else.

Genuinely dry. Raise it toward 30, and start with what you own.

Dry glass and a confirmed reading under 30 is the one case for adding moisture. Check the humidistat you already have before buying anything, since it is often simply off. Then work down the cheapest-first table above.

Measure before you spend anything.

Dry air and merely warm air feel almost identical, and a house at 32 per cent feels dry to plenty of people. A hygrometer settles it in a day and costs less than one service call. Come back to the symptom table once you have a number.

How we know this

Two kinds of claim appear on this page and they are sourced differently. The humidity targets and the humidifier cleaning guidance are quoted from two Health Canada pages, named and dated below, and where those two pages differ we show both rather than picking the one we prefer. The dew point table is our own arithmetic from the Magnus approximation, with the constants printed so you can reproduce it. Nothing here is a survey, an estimate, or a figure we read on another contractor's site.

Two things we are not claiming. We have no first-party figure on this page. The number that belongs here is the share of Peel Region homes we visit in winter that are already running a humidifier badly rather than lacking one, with the sample and the window, and we have not counted it to a standard we would put our name to. And the author's title is a company role, not a trade credential. Mario Vaghei is General Manager. No credentialed reviewer is confirmed for this page, so none is claimed.

The honest downside of calling us about this: the two most common fixes on this page cost nothing. A humidistat left switched off since spring, and a humidity level that needs lowering rather than raising, together explain most winter complaints we hear. We would rather you find that out here than on an invoice.

Watch: the team behind the advice

Company footage from our own channel. None of it demonstrates humidity control, so treat it as background on who would be doing the work rather than as evidence for anything above.

Frequently asked questions

What humidity should a house be at in winter in Canada?

Around 30 per cent. Health Canada's humidifier guidance names 50 per cent in summer and 30 per cent in winter to prevent mould growth, and its mould guidance gives 30 to 50 per cent as the band to stay inside year round. In a cold snap your own ceiling may be lower than 30, because the limit is set by how cold your window glass gets rather than by the calendar.

Is 20% humidity too low in winter?

It is below the band Health Canada names, so it is worth raising if your windows allow it. At 20 per cent you will notice static shocks and wood shrinking, which is moisture leaving your floors and furniture rather than a comfort preference. Raise it toward 30 and stop there, checking the glass on cold mornings as you go.

How dry is too dry for a house?

Below 30 per cent is where the lower bound sits, and the house tells you before a meter does. Static discharge off door handles, gaps opening between floorboards, and doors that change how they fit their frames are all the same signal. The building is giving up moisture to the air, and that is what the 30 per cent floor exists to prevent.

What is the ideal humidity level in a home during cold weather?

There is no single ideal number, and that is the honest answer. The target is around 30 per cent, but your actual ceiling is whatever your coldest window can tolerate before water forms on it. On a mild December day you might hold 35 comfortably; during a deep cold snap the same house may need to sit lower. Watch the glass, not the calendar.

Can mold grow at 55 humidity?

55 per cent is above the range Health Canada names, and its guidance is to maintain relative humidity between 30 and 50 per cent. Mould needs moisture, a surface and time, so a whole house at 55 is a risk rather than a certainty. The bigger danger in winter is local: one cold corner or window frame can sit far wetter than the room average.

At what percentage, do you keep humidity at home during winter season?

We set customers up around 30 per cent and then adjust down if their windows say to. That last part matters more than the starting number, because two houses on the same street with different windows have different ceilings. A humidistat set once in November and never looked at again is the most common thing we find on a winter call.

The short version

Aim for about 30 per cent in winter, and let your windows overrule that if they disagree. The 40 to 45 per cent figure repeated across most winter humidity advice is above what Health Canada names for the season and above what an ordinary double-glazed window in Peel Region can carry on a cold night.

Buy a hygrometer before you buy anything else. If the glass is wet, lower the humidity rather than wiping it. If the glass is dry and the reading is genuinely under 30, check the humidistat you already own before shopping. The full picture of what makes indoor air good or bad, in order of what matters, is on our indoor air quality guide, and if you would rather have someone look at your specific furnace and windows, our humidifier team does that as part of a free in-home estimate.

Sources and references

Both Health Canada pages were read on September 8, 2026.

Health Canada, Mould, modified February 13, 2023. Source of the 30 to 50 per cent year-round band.

Health Canada, Cool-mist humidifiers, modified October 14, 2012. Source of the 50 in summer and 30 in winter target, the reservoir cleaning guidance, and the position on distilled against tap water.

Dew point figures are our own calculation using the Magnus approximation with a equals 17.62 and b equals 243.12 degrees Celsius, computed September 8, 2026. No third-party chart was used.

Mario Vaghei, General Manager of Aire One Peel Heating and Cooling

Mario Vaghei

General Manager, Aire One Peel Heating & Cooling

Mario built this page after noticing that our own older winter humidity posts repeated the common 40 to 45 per cent advice without checking it against Health Canada's seasonal figure or against what an Ontario window can actually carry. Three of those posts now redirect here.